28 Comments

What a vivid description of the city! You've painted a fascinating picture!

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I don’t think you’ve subscribed..you should enjoy my previous/first entry as well, about backpacking into the rainforest.

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Yep. I'm at work, just getting to things when I have a chance!

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Thanks for the CDMX ride along bruv - hoping a forthcoming post dives deep into cacao - I want to hear all about it 🙌

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Yes—I may very well write a post just on that! I’ve wanted to comment on some of your recent ones, but it seems you’ve turned on that option only for paid subscribers?

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Appreciate the note — I had no idea i turned off comments haha, or rather, I didn't de-select it when I hit post. Thanks for the tip. they are all open now, i think.

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Ah! I thought it was a bit odd. Careful about those options.

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I really enjoyed how immersive this was, almost like traveling through a city I've never visited. Thanks for sharing, Nick!

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Thank you, exactly my intention.

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Nick this is a GREAT sentence: “because in Mexico, despite child poverty, corruption, and non-potable water, life is still for living, and enjoying—this is the message I got”

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As I wrote in my other comment to you, probably not so different in many (of the more traditional?) parts of Indonesia as well. My Chinese/ABC partner (Cathy) kept saying that many aspects of it are like “China 30 years ago,” in terms of the relational qualities of people to one another and the street scenes.

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Cathy has a point. I wonder what brought on the paradigm shift though in many of the modern world? And yes you’re right about Indonesia. Though in some metro areas it’s sadly becoming less so. It’s probably a big topic, but I keep finding different reasons …

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Colonialism, Technology, global capitalism, the usual suspects. Given the long hours and low wages of people, and the inequality and corruption, life in Mexico would become pretty terrible and unsustainable pretty quickly, for far more people, were it not for still—very strong familial and community nets as bulwark against these forces, with again, an emphasis on free public spaces, events, art, music, that all happens in the public sphere.

I mean, I remember seeing gas station attendants on the side of a polluted road once in Mexico City, laughing and playing with each other’s braids in between servicing customers, and they were laughing and smiling. Where are you going to see this from people towards bottom of the economic chain in most places? And it’s not like this was in some tiny hick place, this was in the middle of the metropolis. There’s just a gaiety that pervades life, regardless of status.

The American/modern/Chinese dream was basically—yeah, but we can give up all that backwards stuff because we’re INDIVIDUALS who can become rich, so it’s ok!…unfortunately most of those promises have evaporated, so that most people no longer have any such prospect of such wealth, and at the same time, don’t have strong cultural and family nets to fall back on. So people get screwed from both ends—people in most European countries also suffer from many problems of modernity—but at least they have very strong government-mandated social safety nets and abundantly funded arts programs and festivals, for instance. Life becomes pretty sad pretty quickly when you have neither.

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oh my, you nailed this in so many ways. And so true about the "modern" dream of getting rich and how the promises have evaporated.

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That’s probably another set of questions: why is it that the poorest people can laugh off and play with each other in the open street and we can’t even crack a smile in our car? Something is off. But admittedly I like my modern comforts. So I’m torn.

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Because, as I just wrote elsewhere, good natured sociability is woven into the culture at all levels, and people don’t operate as isolated individuals. That would be seen as extremely strange, as I think it probably would be in most places in the world for the entire time we’ve been a species. Good weather also helps.

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Great post! I've been to a version of the posadas here in Tucson, hosted by a friend of a friend. Fantastic tradition:

https://philosophyandfiction.com/2014/12/19/top-12-favorite-christmas-traditions/

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I'm impressed by your challah. Are you from Oklahoma?

Yes, AZ probably has some of these traditions pretty well preserved, along with the food--these are the things that sustain people, even when they have little else.

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Yup, I'm an Okie (but not from Muskogee). And so right on the food. I believe Tucson is one of two UNESCO gastronomy world heritage cities in the US:

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/introducing-americas-first-capital-gastronomy-180957793/

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Huh, interesting!

I’ve almost never been to that part of America at all. What am I missing in context about Muskogee? I don’t know anything about OK aside from one of my classmates went there to work at some government agency after graduating to study storms, and it seemed to be an entirely stereotypical trope of old white guy conservative country types who could barely even imagine a woman working in their field, from the way she told it.

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Hahaha... Oh man. This got me going. "We don't smoke marijuana in Muskogee...we don't get high on LSD." Merle Haggard song: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5K5l89mpV8

I'm from OKC, which was pretty bad in some ways—"Hi, I'm Tina." "Hi, what church do you go to?"—but it's not as bad as people think. Still, all my life I couldn't wait to get out.

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lol ok then. Thanks for confirming all my stereotypes, I can imagine..I went to Nebraska once for a business trip and I thought it was pretty depressing. America is such a strange country. Really more like multiple countries and culture, and becoming more so.

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you definitely capture the flavor of Mexico and I am now looking forward to my first real visit to CDMX next month....having been around Mexico for two years now.

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It’s pretty endless. I’m more enamoured of Oaxaca and things in that size and scale nowadays, but CDMX is certainly its own world full of contrasts..and that makes for good writing. There’s loads of places I still haven’t even gotten to after several visits, just due to time and distance or whatever, freaky things like some of the weirder and more distant Mercados supposedly full of sketchy people, live crocodiles, and Santa Muerte icons, if the (sometimes upset and shocked) reviews are correct at all. The best chocolate store in the world (that I know of) is there, in Escandon nbhd. I load up on gourmet bars that are not exported outside Mexico, both times I’ve been there.

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“In Mexico, despite child poverty, corruption, and non-potable water, life is still for living, and enjoying—this is the message I got.”

Another commenter brought this up. This is a truth I’ve thought much about as I’ve travelled throughout the Third World.

I truly do believe that the word “despite” doesn’t belong there. It is hardships that make life enjoyable for most of mankind, and this is nearly impossible for those in the First World to understand

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Yes, but I don’t think that’s only it, because Mexico scores quite high in happiness and well being matters—far higher than it should vs its income compared to many other countries that also have these problems. I think these types of institutions and practices need to be cultivated and protected, if you lose them then you don’t have a lot.

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Nice piece, Nick! Never been on that side of the world and your essay was like a brush stroke of the city's main colors to absorb and learn about. 👏🏼

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You should go (or to Colombia, which is even much cheaper), aspects of it would probably remind you of Old Romania..with much more cheerful people, better food, and better weather.

The Germans have certainly discovered Mexico, outside of Spanish and indigenous languages (of which there are somewhere between 70-150, depending on how you classify them), I hear nearly as much Deutsch as English there.

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